Platinum mining
Apr 16, 2023
Engagement Rings
Not all platinum rings are created equal
A common assumption in the industry is to assume that valuable metals used for rings, such as gold and platinum, are standard across the industry. However, this is far from the truth; many ring manufacturers use substandard alloys of metal to save money, resulting in rings that cannot maintain their structure and appearance over time. Our platinum rings, on the other hand, are built to last, outliving any other platinum ring while still looking beautiful.  
Are there any particular reasons why we are so confident about the platinum rings we make? Glad you asked! To find out why Novita's platinum rings are unique, keep reading.
As a standard practice in the diamond industry, platinum rings are made of 90% pure platinum and 10% a mix of various metals, primarily to save costs. However, we think diluting the platinum alloy with extra base metals is nothing more than deceiving customers out of their money and a better-quality product. We use 95% pure platinum in our rings, the highest level possible, but the remainder of the 5% is what sets Novita apart from the competition.

In most cases, retailers who sell platinum rings which have a content of 95% will simply use copper to fill the balance of 5% of the ring. As you know, copper is reddish brown in colour, so what do you think happens when you add copper to white metal like platinum? You get a metal that, at first glance, might look white but is nonetheless a muted and dull colour that is nowhere close to the vibrant silver shine of pure platinum. To help counteract this dullness and make it silvery white again, the ring is coated with a thin layer of a nickel mix or rhodium, much like white gold rings. This thin coating is just a veneer and will peel off from regular use within a very short period of time, resulting in the original dull surface getting exposed. The only way to resolve this problem, temporarily, is to take it back to the shop and have it replated, again and again. 
The addition of copper to platinum also weakens the alloy and makes the ring prone to physical wear and tear. Mixing copper with other metals, including platinum, makes for a very soft alloy. A platinum and copper alloy ring will simply not last long; it will accumulate scratches and dents as it ages. But that's not the worst part. Even moderate knocks and bumps against hard surfaces like walls or tables may damage the soft claws, possibly resulting in the loss of the centre lab diamond
Master jeweller ring making UK

Novita’s Secret Platinum Alloy formula 

Because of all these reasons, Novita opposes the use of copper in platinum rings in any form. Thus, Novita has spent decades researching and developing a unique and closely guarded mixture of metals, all naturally white, which, when combined with platinum, brings out the best qualities of platinum while reinforcing it. Not only are our 95% platinum rings brilliantly silver in colour, but they are also very strong. 

Why does this matter to the customer? In short, due to Novita's secret platinum alloy mix, you will no longer need the regular and costly replating. Novita's platinum ring will maintain its initial beautiful colour and lustre even 20 or 50 years down the line. Novita’s platinum rings are also extremely durable and strong, and can hold their shape even after being knocked and bumped (to some extent) thanks to the 5% secret alloy we use. 

Using Platinum Costs 

As you might have noticed, platinum rings are always more expensive than white gold and there are several reasons why. The most straightforward reason is due to the rarity of platinum itself. The alloy used to make platinum rings is also purer and denser than white gold. Nevertheless, almost all diamond retailers, no matter how big or small, charge well over 40 to 100% more for platinum rings than they do for white gold rings. In contrast, Novita charges a very small premium for its platinum rings, around 8 to 15%.

Compared to our prices, our competitor’s are significantly higher, and this has to do with the fact that platinum is an extremely difficult metal for them to work with. Gold, for example, melts at around 1100 degrees Celsius, while platinum requires a working temperature in excess of 1700 degrees C. As you can see, platinum requires more than half the temperature of gold to melt and be pliable enough to work with. Platinum's exceptionally high-temperature barrier has only been overcome by technology in the last half-century when master jewellers began working with it in earnest. Before that, platinum was only relegated to tiny parts of the ring, primarily decorations. Even so, melting platinum and creating rings with it still requires an incredible amount of energy, highly specialised machines and tools, not to mention skilled jewellers. The jewellers, despite their skill, have to experiment through trial and error to make the right alloy, further driving up costs. Due to their inability or unwillingness to invest in such costly equipment and employees, many retailers outsource the production of platinum rings to specialized facilities and then pass the bill on to their customers.

Early on, Novita identified platinum as the metal of the future, instead of gold, and invested heavily in mastering its use. After decades of experience, hard work and research, the results have finally paid off. Novita's specialisation in platinum has enabled us to produce platinum in scale and quality that is unmatched in the diamond industry. Naturally, with scale comes efficiency, and Novita passes those considerable savings onto their customers by pricing their platinum rings much lower than the competition. It is imperative to note that this low price of our platinum rings does not in any way mean that we are compromising on quality. Far from it, in fact. We use a secret mix of metals that makes our platinum rings superior to any other platinum ring manufactured in the world, so much so that there is no contest. 

To summarise, the platinum rings offered by Novita are not only more affordable, but whiter, stronger, and more durable than any white gold or platinum rings on the market. Take a look at our extensive collection of ring designs that can be made with platinum, and take advantage of Novita's specialisation in platinum ring manufacturing so you can be the proud owner of a stunning ring that can be passed down from generation to generation while still looking just as beautiful as the day it was bought.
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